The Snake Pit

This weekend Christine and I decided to visit the Kisumu Museum, which had some great displays on the different local tribes and the tools and techniques they've used over time. There were also the requisite crocodile and tortoise displays, and a snake pit. While we couldn't find any snakes in the pit (!), the enclosed snake displays were impressive enough. I gawked at case after case of huge, live snakes, noting 2 things in common with all: they were extremely venemous and all found in Kakamega Forest, the National Park I plan to visit next weekend! The only lesser snake among the bunch, a non-venemous python some 15 feet long and found all over Kenya, eats small antelopes. I must remember to look as little like an antelope as possible for the next 2 weeks.

For dinner we sat on the edge of Lake Victoria, watching the sun set from a patio restaurant amidst heaps of strewn garbage with no electricity or running water. You get such a terrible appreciation for the longevity of plastic in a developing nation that has little or no waste management. There is garbage everywhere, piling up and accumulating in festering heaps all over the countryside. In Canada we appreciate a false sense that all is well - "out of sight - out of mind". Nonetheless, we enjoyed the best meal I have had yet. When we arrived at the restaurant (and I use that term loosely) were were shown a tray of tilapia to choose from. We opted for a single large fish and asked them to fry it. The fish arrived a few minutes later, all of it, on a big platter. That was it. Just a fish and a small bowl of salt. We discarded the fins and plucked off chunks of flesh to eat, skin and all, and much to my surprise, it was incredible. The tastiest thing I have had yet, and rivals anything I have tasted anywhere. After gorging on fish we retreated back to the street through the dark building, thankful that the embers from the grill were still glowing or I surely would have walked right into the fire pit!

Classes this week are in crochet. We meet from 9 to 1, and then break for the afternoon. This gives the girls time to do their household chores and take care of their children. While a few have done some crochet in the past, none of them know how to read a pattern and have just relied on imagination to produce doilies. I've been teaching them all the stitches and their names, and they're working on making purses. Tomorrow begins the embellishment part - big flopsy flowers for decoration (I can't believe I'm doing this!). Next they'll start making hats, which are already a big hit. Roseline has not taken it off since I first showed it around!

I'm starting to miss home a lot. It's great to get so much good work done, but it's a tough way of life, and I'm missing the comforts of home. Christmas is going to be incredible - hot showers, a soft bed and turkey dinner... mmm mmm!